South Africa Part 2

Between wilderness and wonder

Zimanga – In the heart of Zululand

After a few eventful days in St. Lucia, our journey continues to Zimanga, a beautiful private game reserve in Zululand, only about an hour and a half away. Shortly after our arrival, we are greeted by the first animals. Antelopes stand among the bushes, zebras roam the plains, monkeys swing in the trees, and a herd of buffalo leaves no doubt that we have arrived in the heart of the African wilderness.

The lodge itself is a dream. It leaves nothing to be desired and offers everything you could wish for after a long day outdoors. There's even a pool on the property. However, we never used it – the temperatures were simply too cool.

Daily life in Zimanga follows a simple yet perfect rhythm. Each day consists of two activities: safari game drives and visits to the various hides. There's never a dull moment. Every drive, every hide session brings new encounters and new photographic opportunities.

The guides are also an important part of the experience. Their knowledge of animals, plants, and the interconnectedness of nature is enormous. No matter what question we ask, the answer comes not only quickly, but usually accompanied by exciting stories and fascinating details. Just how valuable this knowledge can be will become especially clear later. But more on that in the section about my second encounter with the elephants.

Exploring the reserve

Every game drive begins with the same question: What will we discover today?

We drive out into the reserve either just before sunrise or in the late afternoon. It's not just about seeing as many animals as possible. Often, it's the small observations along the way that make a drive special: a group of zebras in the golden morning light, a sounder of warthogs running through the grass with their tails held high, or a lilac-breasted roller waiting on a branch for its next meal.

Of course, the larger animals are also present. We frequently encounter buffalo, antelope, and giraffes. With a bit of luck, we might even spot predators like cheetahs and lions; the latter will provide us with many more delightful moments.

Even if there isn't a spectacular sight to be seen, it's never boring. The landscape is constantly changing, and the next surprise could be waiting around every bend.

As a photographer, I particularly enjoy these hours. The soft light in the morning and evening provides perfect conditions, while simultaneously allowing ample time to observe the animals' behavior. Often, the most beautiful pictures aren't taken of the rarest animals, but in the quiet moments in between.

Every drive is different. That's precisely what makes it so appealing. You never know what to expect – and that's exactly why the excitement increases with every kilometer.

The Lion Family of Zimanga

Even before arriving in Zimanga, we learned that a lion family with six cubs was staying in the reserve. Naturally, from that moment on, we hoped for an encounter. During the following game drives, we kept a lookout, wondering if we would catch a glimpse of the family.

When the moment finally arrives, we are not disappointed. It is early morning, almost still dark, when we spot the two females with their young. The young are already lively and frolicking about. The light is still too dim for taking good photos, so we simply observe and enjoy their bustling activity.

Not far away, two lions are standing guard. Large, powerful, and impressive with their magnificent manes. It's immediately clear who's in charge here.

The light is slowly improving, and we're now taking photos. The cubs are particularly fascinating. Like all children, the young lions seem to be testing their boundaries. They constantly tease their parents, jump on each other, or try to get the adults' attention. The two lionesses, and even the males, take this antics with astonishing composure. They patiently tolerate the little troublemakers and let the cubs be.

The combination of the powerful males, the watchful lionesses, and the playful cubs makes this encounter particularly impressive.

For us, this sighting is undoubtedly one of the highlights of our time in Zimanga.

My second encounter with elephants

Anyone who knows my story knows that elephants aren't just fascinating animals to me. They also inspire great respect and a considerable amount of fear. That's why what I experienced in Zimanga was so surprising.

Even in the days leading up to our trip, our guide had been instrumental in this. He repeatedly explained elephant behavior, their body language, and the various signals they send. He pointed out small details I had never noticed before and helped me understand when an elephant is relaxed, when it is alert, and when it's best to keep my distance. With each explanation, my understanding grew—and with it, my confidence.

This newfound trust was put to the test during the game drives. Once, we encountered elephants in the bush, much closer than I would have liked. Two animals (only two, but they were enormous) stood just a few meters from our vehicle. I felt my pulse quicken. At the same time, I remembered our guide's explanations. Instead of just taking in the size of the animals, I began to observe their body language. Slowly, the fear gave way to an ever-growing fascination.

However, the most memorable encounter was yet to come.

 

Overnight Hide - when the night awakens

For many visitors, the most exciting part of the day ends with the sunset. For photographers, that's when it really begins.

The overnight hides turned out to be the absolute highlight of our stay. We spent two nights there, from 3 pm until 9 am the next morning. Equipped with a camera, provisions, and plenty of patience, we settled into our spot and waited to see what the night would bring.

The reality of such a hunting trip, however, is far less spectacular than many imagine. Most of the time, nothing at all happens. You can't summon animals. They follow their own rhythm and appear when they deem it appropriate. In between, we doze on the rather uncomfortable camp beds, observe the darkness, or simply listen to the sounds of the night.

A continuously lit backlight or frontlight gently illuminates the surroundings, making photography possible. Flash photography is strictly prohibited – and for good reason. The animals should be able to behave completely naturally and not be disturbed by harsh light.

It is precisely this mixture of patience, suspense, and complete uncertainty that makes it so appealing. You never know what will happen next. And that is exactly why every encounter becomes something special.

Patience will be rewarded

The long hours spent in the overnight hide aren't always action-packed. Often, a lot of time passes without anything happening at the waterhole. But that's precisely what makes the special moments all the more precious.

Animals repeatedly emerge from the darkness, drink briefly, and disappear as silently as they came. Some encounters last only a few minutes, others allow us longer periods of observation.

The rhinos are particularly impressive. They emerge almost silently from the darkness. In the dim light, their massive bodies appear almost primeval. Calmly and attentively, they approach the water while we observe their every movement. These are encounters that inspire awe and make us realize once again how privileged we are to be able to experience these endangered animals in their natural habitat.

Buffalo also regularly visit the waterhole. At night, they appear even more massive than during the day. Their powerful bodies and enormous horns stand out against the darkness. They often stand by the water for a long time, attentively observing their surroundings, before disappearing back into the night.

It is precisely this diversity that makes an overnight hide so appealing. You never know which animal will appear next. Every movement at the waterhole heightens the anticipation, and every rustle in the darkness could be the start of an unforgettable encounter.

Very close to the giant

During our stay at the second overnight hide, a huge bull elephant suddenly appeared at the waterhole. Out of nowhere, he stood before us. Powerful, calm, and completely self-assured.

My adrenaline immediately surges. But this time something is different. I remain calm.

Viewed through the wide-angle lens, everything seems manageable. The elephant fills almost the entire frame, but the camera creates a sense of distance. However, as soon as I look away from the camera, I become aware of its true size. Suddenly, there is no longer a subject, but a gigantic creature whose dimensions are almost incomprehensible.

And yet: Don't panic.

For the first time, I manage to get so close to an elephant without fear taking over. Instead, fascination prevails. I observe every movement, every sound, and every breath.

The bull stays at the waterhole for minutes. For us photographers, it's a dream. For me personally, it's so much more. It's the moment I realize how much my attitude towards these impressive animals had changed during the trip.

As the elephant finally disappears back into the darkness, a feeling remains that is difficult to describe. The resulting photos are among my favorites from the entire trip. But even more precious is the memory of that moment.

Of all my experiences in South Africa, this is my personal highlight – the rare combination of an exceptional photographic opportunity and the feeling of having overcome a long-standing fear to some extent.

More than just photos

As our time in South Africa slowly comes to an end, countless memories remain. Memories of sunrises over the savanna, the sounds of the night, enormous elephants, majestic lions, adorable lion cubs, impressive rhinos, and encounters that have been seared into our memories.

Of course, I'll be returning home with thousands of photos. Many of them will remind me of special moments for a long time to come. But the most precious souvenirs can't be stored on a memory card.

It's the feelings that linger. The wonder of an unexpected sighting. The excitement during long hours in the hide. The peace found only far from everyday life and its hectic pace. And the realization that some fears can diminish when faced.

South Africa has shown me once again why I'm so passionate about nature photography. It's not just about photographing animals. It's about being able to spend time in their world, to observe them, to experience their stories, and to be a part of it, even if only for a brief moment.

With countless memories, full memory cards, and a firm desire to return, this journey comes to an end.

But the fascination with Africa remains.